As Pre-Fall 19 look books pile up, a particular Italian one caught the attention of fashion insiders: Bottega Veneta’s. The North Italian brand kept a rather low profile these past few years being relayed as a traditional and slightly out-dated label. So what changed? The arrival of Daniel Lee as head of creative direction most definitely.
With Pre-Fall 2019 as his official debut for the brand, the ex-Celine protégé replaced Tomas Maier in July this year. The English designer is a Central Saint Martins alumni, with brands like Maison Margiela or Balenciaga on his CV.
If this collection is already plastered on the various fashion high-profile social media accounts it is for a good reason. No one has been able to miss the similarities with the style of ex-Celine designer Phoebe Philo, which departure left aficionados grieving (as can testify Instagram account @oldceline which quick fame has been built on relaying pictures and campaigns from Philo’s time at Celine). Her timeless designs, made to empower women while playing with vintage and more classic inspirations, had become part of the essence of the brand.
This Bottega Veneta collection is elegant, sophisticated and modern. While the blazers, overcoats and gold details are not without reminiscing of Phoebe Philo’s designs, Bottega Veneta’s distinctive woven technique and use of leather were still portrayed in this Pre-Fall. The looks are easy on the eye, made of a mix of fluidity and structure, a soft and warm color palette, and interesting cuts. Daniel Lee’s start at the Italian label will surely be remembered, although only future will tell if he will distinguish his style from Phoebe Philo’s influence.
