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Dior x "Nuit Blanche"

“Everything must come from the heart, must be lived”. These words by Pina Bausch could be read last September at the Longchamp Racecourse where the Dior Spring Summer 2019 was held. For that season the Creative Director was inspired by the world of dance so much so that she partnered up with choreographer Sharon Eyal to curate the scenography and choreograph the show in order to give an immersive experience to the spectators.

courtesy of Marieclaire

Fast forward six months and the union between dance and fashion knocked once again on Dior doors. This time though, Chiuri is lending her experience to dance by being called to design the costumes for the Philip Glass tribute at the Teatro dell’Opera in Rome. The show is made out of three parts curated by internationally famous choreographers and ballet dancers such as Eleonora Abbagnato -Palais Garnier étoile and director of the dance company at the Teatro dell’Opera- and Friedmann Vogel - Stuttgart Ballet étoile- both performing in the never-before-seen Nuit Blanche.

It is for Nuit Blanche that the Dior creative director worked her magic. The costumes are characterised by the classic aesthetic of the French fashion house, in a tribute to the Miss Dior silhouette and its designer monsieur Dior.

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Chiuri is well aware of the importance of evolving and innovating and for this reason she studied the fabrics to be elastic and adaptable to the movements of the dancers. Another key theme that she wanted to express was the concept of lightness, a focal point in her being an Italian working for a French maison.

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Evolution and tradition therefore perfectly inscribe in this attempt of innovating and staying relevant while experimenting on different fields not strictly related to fashion. In this union of contrasts created by materials and nods to the past, the chosen colours for the dresses are therefore rather interesting and meaningful. The ivory fabrics of the two étoile, suggestively stand out among the powdery, darker palette of the rest of the performers, while maintaining a fil rouge given by the applied organza roses. This element is particularly relevant and studied because it embodies both Christian Dior love for these flowers and the choreographer’s inspiration for the movements that are meant to reflect the birth, death and hatching of the roses.

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Observing the flowers it is evident how haute couture was used on these designs. Starting from the idea of the flowers pressed between the pages of antique books, Maria Grazia Chiuri had an artisanal laboratory in Bologna make these creations by hand, from the painting to the cutting and assembling the different layers. The different pieces were then applied on the skirts as well as the bodice and tights and pressed against the body of the dancers. The final effect is, especially on the black tulle, very evocative of this idea of something antique and delicate. This eye for detail shows the passion Dior Creative Director has for dance and the continuous commitment in other arts.

courtesy of Marieclaire

The first night took place on March 29 and saw the presence of several celebrities such as Bebe Vio, Delfina Delettrez Fendi with Silvia Venturini Fendi, the French ambassador Christian Masset and Chiara Ferragni in a Fall/Winter couture gown from the maison. Before assisting to the premiere, Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to share a tour in her very own city, Rome, with the influencer friend Ferragni, guided by the art historian Filippo Cosmelli in a full immersion in the history and culture.

Along with Nuit Blanche, choreographed by Sébastien Bertaud especially for Eleonora Abbagnato and Friedmann Vogel, the other two parts were Hearts and Arrows by Benjamin Millepied and Glass Pieces, by Jerome Robbins. The performance will be shown until April 2 at the Teatro dell’Opera in Rome.

by Laura Zanovello

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