The Chanel Pre Fall collection starts pretty quietly. Total black looks are enlightened by sparkling accessories, such as belts, made out of little diamonds. Shapes are elegant and vaguely oversize, still classic. Then, gradually, the show heats up and the colours become juicy, the fabrics full and enveloping. It’s the beginning of a party that, starting in gentle tones of peach and burgundy, soon turns into a Party with capital letter. Mini dresses, jumpsuits and midi skirts are covered with shiny sequins and make the collection extremely precious.
Virgine Viard took inspiration from Mademoiselle Chanel and her apartments, above the atelier, on Rue Cambon in Paris, where the icon of style preserved her most private part. Viard also takes ideals and spirit from Coco and, before the fashion show, stated that the will was to create timeless clothes, dedicated to a woman whose charm is innate. The evolution of the modern woman Chanel wanted a century ago - it is interesting how ideals remain the same and eventually reappear, years later.
Despite this claim to everyday life, the Pre Fall collection is truly a hymn to pomp. Embroiders, feathers and fake flowers underline not only to the attention to details Maison Chanel is devoted to, but also continue the trend of the Métiers d'art, the collection is part of.
What the collection probably teaches us, is that an innate charm can be conquered only after years of education and exposure to a gentle culture. It is not something we acquire by birthright, but a long path that requires dedication and courage. Just like those craftman traditions that still give us the perfection of Chanel dresses.
words by Giulia Greco