Maison Margiela follows the usual path and thinks critically about clothing and its function in society, with a decostructionistic way of thinking. The show is gender fluid, because male and female models show together and mix. Garters, knee-high boots in leather, extremely high-waist trousers that become jumpsuits and coats with hols through which you can see frayed jumpers. Maison Margiela’s imaginary always makes waves and if someone thinks it is exaggerated, not easy to be understood and out of schemes, this is exactly the way the label wants to be.
Black and charcoal gray are the main colours, with the addition of military green. All of it is eventually layered with dense red and blue. Materials are alternate: wool, black leather and transparent pvc. To see what’s under has always been the final purpose of Maison Martin Margiela, after all.
Colours also reach accessories and makeup, which is very dense and strong. Hats especially are for a half very precious, covered with feathers or crystal; on the other half they seem to be made out of paper, recalling the one used by hand-workers, who "build" with their hands - as the initial makeup, white as lime on the face of the model.
Words by Giulia Greco