Elie Saab takes inspiration from China and its unique imaginary made of embroideries, luxurious fabrics and golden inlays. Haute Couture collection is just precious and models on the runway walk ten centimeters above the ground. They play the role of warrior princesses from foreign lands, rigorous in the hairstyles, ethereal and wrapped in dresses made not with normal fabrics, because they seem more sculptures.
Drapes are rigid and make strong lines around the female body. Shiny materials mix and match with velvet and transparent tulle. Each outfit marks the waist line strongly, with a pretty thick belt which recalls the traditional obi to close kimono.
The real magic is anyways in the embroideries, made with golden and silver threads and following floral patterns and heraldic shapes. The most impacting ones are the ones on transparent fabrics, that seem to be made on models’ skins.
What emerges from the collection is a sense of strong and powerful spirit. No romanticism and affectation, but fiery and firm character.
Words by Giulia Greco