London is irreverent, cosmopolitan, built on the subcultures from the 60s 70s and 80s of the past century, whose influences are very vivid even now. Fashion is free and counter-trendy, because it still believes in the critical capability of clothing.
We saw this rebel spirit in Pringle of Scotland collection, which mixes together strong colours and bright tones, swimming pool's deep blue (yes, also the pattern are inspired by the light reflecting on the limpid surface of the water) and strong orange. Tech fabrics meet luxury yarn.
And we saw it even more in Liam Hodges, where the street aesthetic is the indubitable ruler of the show, with its urban and cool approach.
Mix&Match for Iceberg too. The collection borrows gym apparel and makes it kind of futuristic, with reflective fabrics and fluorescent colours. Patchwork is the most used pattern, denim the never-missing material. The Iceberg's logo is present here and there, because the collection is very "young", and fits perfectly in the logo-mania younger consumers share.
Classic and tailored, totally different from the ones we saw before, is Oliver Spencer collection. It recalls sailors' life with blue and white striped t-shirts and destructured caban. Suits are soft, made of linen, and colours are not intrusive and calm down. It's a summer-like collection, which still preserves its high quality level.
McQueen looks at tradition as well, but in a very different way than the first collections we saw. The collection is inspired by Alexander McQueen's Scottish roots, from where the kilt shape and the thick gray mohair. The other inspiration is from 1990 collection dedicated to Japan. Big floral embroideries covered garments and accessories. The last coat in particular develops this idea, with 3D applications made with discarded fabrics.
The real McQueen's heir is anyways Craig Green, whose collection is born from the macabre and the oscene to find the usual beauty of life - and the most sincere one. The Spring Summer 2020 collection is a meditation on skin, though a massive use of leather. The most extended human organ, which envelopes us and protect from the outer world. Which putrefies completely after death, unless, like ancient Egyptians and old Mexican culture, we decide to bury the bodies or to use special techniques for conservations. A very interesting and energetic collection, with a subtle political side.
An other collection is born from the historical drama, to celebrate the miracle of life of human beings. It's the one of Samuel Ross for A-Cold-Wall. The human body in its natural shape is exalted and looked at with a futuristic eye, cover with soft and elastic fabrics, that allow free movements. The collection is also an investigation on human relationship with objects and the evolutions to come.
Words by Giulia Greco