Menswear fashion week ended yesterday in the Italian capital of style, Milan, and we must speek about a few things.
This is not only about new trends, even if catwalks offered many interesting ideas, from high tailoring to technical clothes.
Milan gave us something more: a reflection on who we are today. And who we want to be tomorrow. And no, for once we are not talking about sustainability - although of course, it remains on the agenda, and it's somehow subtly connected.
On one hand, therefore, catwalks and their fantastic settings have reminded us of what we like best about fashion: escapism. On the other hand, they have shown us that clothes are much more than this and are able to help us become better people for our future. We can, and must, grow. And infantile escapism, although it seduces an important part of us, is certainly not the solution.
The calendar opened with the DSquared2 twins, who celebrated their 25th birthday in the field with a sparkling collection. Layered looks and various influences, which beautifully summarize the maison's artistic imagination.
British brands also walked the show, including Alexander McQueen and A Cold Wall, thanks to a special collaboration between the Italian Chamber of Fashion and the British Fashion Council.
Follow the White Rabbit
Let's start from the grand finale, with Gucci's fashion show, which presented a beautiful and wearable collection, while remaining faithful to its over-the-top imagery. The clothes of our childhood have been translated into an adult version that has something hybrid and in some sense scary. Soft mohair sweaters, in pastel colors, combined with wide tailored trousers. Bermudas of all kinds, often paired with knee high socks, as children wore them in the second half of the last century. And what about shoes. A real nightmare for those who find themselves in that transition between childhood and adolescence, which everyone, everyone indeed, knows. T-bar sandals, with rubber sole and two large holes on the front. A more explicit reference to childhood does not exist. And then the apron dresses. These are all pieces that we are ready to see return in the seasons to come.
The invitation to escape was even more marked in the fashion show Francesco Risso organized for Marni. More than an escape, it was introspection itself. Against the uncertainty of the contemporary world, fashion offers us a comfortable covered space in which to hide until the storm comes to an end. A castle, if we want, ready to protect us. More than a fashion show, after all, Marni was a real party, with dancers and dazzling lights. In his castle there is everything we need, we don't even have to go out to buy new clothes.
There are indeed many pieces that came from past years. Leftovers perfectly modernized, which tell their story and are ready to experience new ones. This is how hybrid coats are made, with two fabrics sewn together: truly beauties. And then crazy, playful combinations, full of color and life and passion.
Passion, above all passion. For a medium of communication that still has a lot to offer us and that, for enlightened minds like Risso's, has no limits. As in the craziest parties, as for future science fictions, as for childhood games, everything is allowed and everything works.
How to build the future
Something else can also be learned from our childhood and past years, which we may have missed a little in recent periods. The taste in clothing. Enough messy streetwear, long life to impeccable and elegant tailoring, fresh as we have never seen it before. For Miuccia Prada, workwear has always played a fundamental role in collections: after all, clothes must be worn. I mean, really worn.
So, Prada collection was a hymn to the daily life of those who get up and go to work. No shortcuts and no one hiding their heads in the sand. If we want a better future we have to dress (well) and go out to shape it. And we have to do it together, as society has always done throughout its history. It is no coincidence that the catwalk ran on a double futuristic square, which at the end of the show was filled with the swarming life of real men. Power suits, sweaters and shirts, wide and rigorous coats. But also eco ship-skin jacket on vinyl that we liked a lot.
Giorgio Armani had more or less the same idea. We need to go back to evaluating clothes for their workmanship and learn to appreciate them throughout their life cycle. His men's collection was impeccable in all its parts. At the beginning he took off the NEVE capsule, designed for winter sports. Then the actual collection, in which the focus was on jackets. Elegant coats, blazers, suede bomber jackets. And then again fur and velvet parka. All according to the stylistic canons of the master, who made, at the very beginning of his career, jacket and pants suits his card.
MSGM moved along the same lines of elegant workwear, but then it brought some splashes of colour that cannot be contained. On an elegant gray suit, put a bright green maxi down jacket, and if you want to break the monotony of a black cotton shirt, you can wear it together with violet details. Printed shirts are fun and very street. They will certainly be very successful among young generation and demonstrate Massimo Giorgietti's long eye regarding trends.
Functionality first of all
Appeared in more or less all the collections and a great favorite of the younger generations, functional and practical clothing was the core of Fendi's show. Silvia Venturini Fendi brings all her precious knowledge of accessories to menswear and creates a practical and minimal collection, with some special effects. Here too we found polished trends for our future wardrobe. Bermudas, tailored and not, but also tank boots (the most beautiful ones in beige suede) and "modular" jackets. Short blazers become an interesting option, not only for men but also for women, and the jewels are linear and simple.
The maximum functionality, however, is given by the pockets applied to sweaters and jackets, which allow us to have everything we need at hand. Brilliant.
words by Giulia Greco