Ann Demeulemeester brought to the stage an extremely interesting, transgressive and complex collection. Each outfit alternates black and white and falls regularly on the models' bodies. There is no exaggeration and everything seems to go smoothly in the set of the show, made of clear concrete floor and surrounding red brick walls. A bare space for a collection that wants to look simple and regular.
Only seem though, because as outfits go along the stage they become more and more articulated: an internal and silent stratification, which makes little fanfare but which if watched carefully is spectacular.
The layers of each outfit overlap creating inlays on the skin, where the cuts cross and create movement. Not only: the designer decided to play and transgress not so much on colors, but on materials. The fishnet stockings is visible between the splits, the vinyl creates bright spots. Even the accessories and make-up are subtly above the lines: a marked and decidedly undefined smoky eyes, a little rock and roll, and large hanging pearls that frame the face.
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Words by Giulia Greco