It was raining this morning in Paris and, although it was not exactly the perfect atmosphere to kick off the French fashion week, it certainly suited the Marine Serre fashion show. The wet floor, the tufts of freshly washed grass at the sides, the sky of an opalescent white, all combined to create an almost apocalyptic situation.
The collection was no less. Match with a tone of opaque black, almost dusty, on jumpsuits, coats and leather dresses, then fades into red, brown, blue and white but remains equally gloomy, as if painting a future, post-modern humanity. Combat also: it is true that the military tone fades in the last part of the show, where the clothes become rustling, more elegant and sophisticated, with beautiful see-through and light floral prints. But even there aesthetics do not change much and perpetuate a vaguely disturbing image.
At the same time, however, a kind of hope is born in the spectator. Like salvation, from the darkness, the clothes grow in intensity as the show continues and simulate the rebirth of man and the expectation of a bright future.
We really like prints, the cathartic sweetness of transparencies, the modern note of the final dresses in various patterns. We also like the details, like the headphone, the small bags worn on the arm, the long predator nails.
A complex and layered collection, which opens the fashion week in a sublime way.
Words by Giulia Greco