On the Rochas catwalk the clothes move like solid, divided, expanded blocks, broken down according to the genius of an artist at work. The colors melt and invade the entire surface of a shirt, skirt or coat and then crystallize, becoming a glossy uniform surface.
The fabrics Alessandro dell'Acqua had fun with creating the Spring Summer 2020 are various and range from leather to lace, passing through different types of metallic fabrics. But all are precious and all - except for the transparent organza - are rigid enough to maintain the clean and absolutely regular shape that the designer wanted to create.
The collection wants to be quite simple, linear and clean. It is certainly not fussy, in terms of shapes, styling and jewels, indeed. Multi-pocket utility shirts alternate with formal and masculine-style suits. The midi dresses have beautiful drapes, the maxi dresses are instead net and geometric. The only applications present are maxi pearls on the tip of the ballet shoes of every look.
Magic is released instead in the colour palette and in the combinations of materials. All the creative joy, passion and inspiration of Dell'Acqua reside in this aspect of the collection. A show that tries to stay within the defined boundaries of good taste and courtesy, but which then explodes, where it can, and gives free rein to its imagination.
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Words by Giulia Greco