On the notes of the cover of Frank Ocean “Moon River”, originally sung by Audrey Hepburn in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”, the spring-summer 2020 collection signed Piccioli for Valentino was opened. An apparent minimalism in the first twelve garments would seem to dominate the atmosphere. Actually, rather than minimalism, it clarifies Piccioli backstage, it is a white embellished by unmistakable couture allure and we could add by the naturally intrinsic romance we feel in all his collections.
White, which opens and closes the show, is also a tribute to the archives, in particular to the total white looks that paraded in ’68 and immortalized by Henry Clarke in the apartment of Cy Twombley in Rome. According to the critics, the White Valentino redefined modern luxury and by observing today’s collection, this consideration would still be perfect, by placing itself in that order of ideas of inclusion and acceptance of which Piccioli is one of the first representatives.
The attention to details, experience and handiness of the atelier is distinctly identified in the long dresses depicting exotic scenarios. These too, are the result of a perfect symbiosis between past and present, between archive and contemporaneity. Emblematic is in fact the Valentino Garavani’s dress dating back to 1967 portraying a similar scenario with black panthers on a green background; in the same way, it is not difficult to find among those embroideries and details a more or less explicit reference to the Amazon forest and to the recent events that have affected it.
Bright neon colors then gave back its meaning at the spring-summer fashion show, as well as the Valentino red, here shaded in a coral tone, perfectly in line with a summer moodboard. The lightness of summer also shines from feathers, pleats, mini-dresses and ruffles. The straight silhouettes and laces-up sandals recall the continuous and unlimited influences of the Eternal City.
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words Ludovica Mucci