Pitti Uomo came to an end on the 13th of June and it was an acclaimed success. Born as a trade fair, it is transforming into a proper fashion week on a smaller scale. The product for sure, and the savoir fair, yes. But what really take Pitti at the center of the attention are events and their sublime frame, the city of Florence.
In the Instagram-dominated reality, with all its influencers, marketing pulls the strings, together with storytelling, which is the real secret weapon to positioning products on the market. No more clothes, but experiences.
Although the commercialization Pitti is facing in the last period of time, the fair is still a perfect platform for menswear. Not only for traditional and well known brands, but also for emerging talents, that find in Florence a useful window for their deigns, easy to access.
Often happens that new faces in the field are the ones that better embody the real essence of fashion - inspire and be inspired by the surrounding landscape - against market's rules, guilty of enslave brands and poison creativity.
The most awaited designer was Marco de Vincenzo: besides the celebration for ten years activity of his own brand, the designer choose Pitti to present his first menswear collection.
The inspiration come from the classical lines of men clothing, and play with proportions and fabrics. Relaxed fit suits, pinstripe and soft t-shirts. Disproportionate jeans, with wide lapels and very high waist, together with classic shirts, brightened by pastel colours. Shiny details, comfortable and playful shoes.
MSGM by Massimo Giorgetti had its ten birthday as well, and celebrated taking to the stage a collection that is the perfect representation of his joyful genius and sovversive style. This personal spirit is diluted with basic lines, between sportswear and tailoring. Patterns and colours wink to Millennial consumers, with tie-dye, poppies and technicolor animalier. It is a light and summer-like collection, with no intellectual pretensions. Fashion is fun.
Givenchy's collection wisely mixed together sportswear's stylistic features and high male tailoring. Technic fabrics and big gym bags, with nylon made parkas and relaxed fit suits. Colour palette is neutral and natural, with tons of beige, pastel yellow and navy blue. There are also some interesting patterns.
A side note for accessories: foulard, chains and necklace that recall in some way a dark aesthetic.
Speaking about milestone, Paul Andrew presented at Pitti Uomo 2020 his first solo collection and first menswear only collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. The location was just perfect: Piazza della Signoria and Palazzo Vecchio as background, minimal and spectacular set both.
Minimal was the collection too, inspired by workwear: cargo pants, ribbed tank top and belts made out of cotton and tied in waist. A lot of leather and high craftsmanship. Colours are neutral at the beginning, but follow an ascensional path to more exuberant tones in the final. A tech detail is in the eyewear, googles with reflective lens, which make us remember an old futuristic vision.
Words Giulia Greco