A recap of this PFW
On Monday afternoon Paris Fashion Week started with a bang. Three of the most awaited shows of this season were presenting. Dior went first, followed by Jacquemus and Gucci. Jacquemus followed his usual guidelines with a show called «La Riviera», a ethnically diverse cast and a front row full of French It-girls. The collection’s strongest pieces were for sure the XXL bags in earthy tones. Gucci then followed, starting its show with an horror movie projection. The show was held in Paris’ equivalent of Studio 54 and it included a performance by Jane Birkin. The collection was more sexually loaded than at usual, including references to Dolly Parton and Janis Joplin. But the real bang happened at Dior. With a ballerina inspired collection, Dior overdid itself by turning the Hippodrome de Longchamp in a ballet dance floor with wooden floors and quotes of Isadora Duncan and Pina Bausch. In case this was not enough to impress the A-list guests, a performance was also on the menu with ballet dancers presenting a coregraphy prepared by Sharon Eyal on the dimly lit parquet flooring. Maria Grazia Chiuri did what she does best: embellishments, tulle and delicate feminine dresses.
Tuesday was Marine Serre, Afterhomework and Saint Laurent’s turn. Starting well with Marine Serre offered us a taste of Couture Futurism with (for the first time) some menswear looks as well. The show was held outside, on a elevated walkway of Paris. Amongst the show stopping looks were diving suits and utility jackets. Saint Laurent followed suit, using the Eiffel Tower (all lighted up in white) as background once again. But the eyes were surprisingly not on this decor element but rather on the 0.8cm tall water flooring at the feet of the models giving a new interpretation to walking on water. The show started with a few 80s inspired dresses, mixing gold and black sparkling pieces. Animal prints and big shoulders drew the silhouettes of rebellious young women. As the show went on, the inspiration shifted to the previous decade, the 70s.