Livia Firth, co-founder and creative director of the association ECO-AGE has awarded Brazilian
brand Osklen with the Green Carpet Challenge label for its pioneering use of Pirarucu's fish
skin. The brand’s creative director, Brazilian designer Oskar Metsavaht began his adventure with
Osklen in 1990, with the creation of winter sportswear, then he made his entry into the luxury
world ten years later modifying the brand’s structure and orienting it towards experimentation and
innovation.
Describing his creative process, Oskar declared: “[…] it begins with a scene, a story, a style, a
concept that I create from something I wanted or lived. From this point, I create the climate, the
atmosphere, the looks and attitudes. In most cases, I conceive the campaign even before the
collection”.
Metsavaht is also recognised for his role as an environmentalist and pioneer of sustainability in the
world of fashion, indeed he was the first to introduce the term “New Luxury” into the industry.
And it is precisely because of his inclination to experimentation and his passion for the protection
of the environment, that he received this important recognition: Pirarucu's fish skin was originally
conceived as a waste material, but tannery Nova Kaeru and research center Instituto-E made of
this waste material a luxury leather thanks to a low impact tanning process. Osklen has been
collaborating for about ten years with Nova Kaeru and regularly visits the communities in the
Amazon region with Instituto-E, which are supported by the profits earned by the production
process.
Osklen uses about 48% of the leather on accessories, including bags and shoes, and it also controls
the production process. Indeed, the brand, thanks to a traceability system, can control the source of
the skin supported by the IBAMA, the Brazilian Institute of Environment and Renewable
Resources, which guarantees the sustainability of stock management activities. After 20 years of
implementation of this system, the stock of Pirarucu has increased by 427%, also stabilizing the
economy of the region and increasing jobs. Furthermore, it has been confirmed that Pirarucu's fish
reduces CO2 emissions and prevents further deforestation of the Amazon.
“We are thrilled to have been able to work with Osklen to celebrate such a positive material that
can support local economies and social development” ECO-AGE stated, “This work currently
supports 378 riverside communities in the state of Amazon and the state of Acre, who through
fishing Pirarucu are supported not only through income generation and job creation, but also
through long-term initiatives such as training programs.”
During the award ceremony, Livia Firth also assured that the Green Carpet Collection by John
Galliano for Maison Margiela, initially conceived for Paris Fashion Week, will take place in
September during prêt-à -porter season.
words Ludovica Mucci